Thursday, July 29, 2010

Breaking Into The Industry: Agency or No Agency?

Breaking Into The Industry: Agency or No Agency?

When trying to get into the Makeup Industry or to move to the next level, a lot of artists contact me for advice for my thoughts. Models, Writers, TV People, Actors, Actresses and more have agents. I think it is a natural thing for a lot of Make-up Artists to think that they need an agent or agency to represent them when starting out or advancing in their career.


The truth is- there are no real make-up artist agencies- at least for people starting out, regular bridal makeup artists and most makeup artists that may even consider themselves more advanced than others.

In New York City especially, you will find people online listed as Agents for anything you could possibly imagine. Many make-up artists hear that their models have agencies or work with agency models. It is natural to assume that you should get on board with some sort of agent. Unfortunately, there really is no help out there or easy way for you to find some one else to promote your services. Ideally, we would all be able to go to an agency with a portfolio and sign on - even if that meant giving up 15-20% of our income!

A few years ago I set out to investigate possible representation. There are a lot of unofficial people out there claiming to be agents for just about any thing. I researched online for a Makeup Artist agency and didn't come up with much information. I found some online information that Wilhelmina (the model agency) offered Make-up Artist representation.

Upon calling Wilhelmina, a very awesome representative told me that they no longer had any agents for or represented Makeup Artists. It seems like a big waste to me and I am still unsure why there aren't big agencies for us! However, the lady from Wilhelmina was awesome and offered to fax/email me a long list of Agencies she still had on file. She ended up sending me about 30 pages of font 10 names,numbers and addresses.

When I used to play in bands and when I went to school and took Music Management classes- rock bands had press kits. A press kit is a folder or package that includes the bands cd, bio, press releases, promotional material, and more. These press kits are then sent out to managers, agencies, record companies and just about any one who will accept a press kit! I had come accustomed in the music world to making press kits for my own musical projects and friends projects. As a creature of habit, I decided to make up a press kit for my makeup services.
 The press kit included:
  • DVD slideshows of my work complete with a DVD Menu
  • Bio & Resume
  • Professional Printed Photos of my work
  • Business Cards & Promotional Materials
  • Cover letter to the agency
  • & More
I sent this press kit out to about 40 agencies. The entire endeavor ended up costing me about $350. I waited for the phone to ring. I did hear some replies, however most of them were saying they would keep my stuff "on file" and they said they some times need "body painters or fx people". Unfortunately, there wasnt a huge market for new beauty artists. I also started reading up on Business Management and Resume sending.
Apparently I was doing every thing wrong.lol. A lot of professional blogs and books will tell you to never "just send a resume". Apparently, the best thing to do is to call or contact the company or agency you are looking to work with. Otherwise, just sending your information is called "SPRAYING".

Remember that saying from when you were a kid? 
"Say it, don't spray it"
 Ok. Now apply that to sending your resume or dealing with companies.lol! 


It is always good to establish some line of communication before flooding people's desks with your promotional material. This is also a good habit to remember when making mailing lists or advertising to a clientele base that you have collected. There is nothing attractive about an unknown person spamming or piling their promotional material on. I wish I knew that before I spend hundreds of dollars sending my stuff out. Oh.. and.. in addition, most of those major agencies had either closed up shop or changed addresses - so a lot of my press kits actually came back in the mail - torn and damaged from the United States Post Office (thanks guys).

 So, Agency or No Agency?

The answer is- No Agency.
After spraying my promotional material all over god's earth- I then started to call a lot of the big agencies that I had sent my stuff to. Mind you, this was with an impressive resume that was filled with everything from retail experience to TV/FILM and Catalogs etc.


After calling up the agencies I kept receiving the same answers. Many of them were not looking for any new beauty artists and would consider hiring me for my special fx and body painting work. Many of the agencies only represented make-up artists with commercial make-up lines --- like Bobbi Brown or Vincent Longo. In addition, many of the agencies only represented 3-4 make-up artists each.

I ended up giving up on agencies. Although I did call some people about 2 years ago and was told then that they weren't looking to represent any new artists due to the economy. My best advice is to not waste your time on looking for agencies at all. When you get your own make-up line that is successful and is hunted down by sephora - consider getting an agenct. When you have your own book,products, accountant, lawyer, and are making more money that you can handle - get an agent. But for now - hang in there. There are no agents for you!


Occasionally, I think we all see that post "MAKEUP ARTIST LOOKING FOR AGENCY REPRESENTATION" on craigslist in the "gigs" section. However, don't get too excited. No one will be contacting them at all. Don't even waste your time.



If you are a make-up artist that is looking to advance or take the easier road - I would say you stand a better chance in the T.V. or Film Union. But that has it's pros and cons too.


Boo! to the agencies!


Working in a Retail Make-up Environment

Retail Make-up Artists: "My Retail Experience with a #1 Makeup Company"


As a Professional NYC Make-up Artist, I receive a lot of emails from make-up artists, students attending NYC beauty schools, and more. When starting out as a make-up artist or working in the industry in general many people wonder what it's like to actually work in a retail makeup environment.As a make-up artist I have worked in retail, commercial, private client, tv/film, fashion runway and more settings.

Retail in my experience has always been an "interesting" experience. There are many pro's and con's when working retail or deciding to work retail. Many things are rewarding while some leave you disappointed.

Upon entering the retail world of make-up I initially had little to no experience in Make-up Artistry. I had however, always been an artist and musician. I also had many friends who were in the modeling industry, performance industry, and also Club Industry. I would have to say my make-up experience started in the Night Club environment - attending clubs, making people up for club events, hosting my own events and also DJing. One of my sayings has always been "Never Say Drag Queen" (pertaining to bridal trials and general client discussions). However, there a lot of interesting tips, product information, and subtle and dramatic styles to be learned from a lot of NYC Queens/Performers/Club Hosts.


Prestige & The Big Company
When applying for a job in the retail I went to my favorite Make-up Company (shall remain nameless). It was and still is considered the #1 Professional Makeup Company out there and can be found in both partnership locations- Macy's, Nordstroms and Free Standing Locations. The interviewing process was a stressful one.
I brought a friend for the interview as my model - which I would honestly never do again. My friend attempted to "help me" during the interviewing process by telling me she would have used different colors. My best advice for others interviewing with models - is to never bring a friend - or at least brief them before hand on what they should and shouldn't do! OMG

Needless to say - I got the job. I was very excited initially. My general impression was that the artists from this company were like the "playboy bunny- superwomen" of the make-up industry - and I bought into the prestige. I felt honored to be accepted into this club! I've always felt that there was a lot of hype built up around artists of certain companies - I would soon find out that it wasn't all glitz and glamour.

Thrown to the Wolves:
The company took 8 months to send me to basic training and basically threw new employees "to the wolves". I was expected to meet sales goals and give product information to customers - with absolutely no training. The company had so many different foundations, eyeshadows, coverages and more. It's absolutely frightening when you are just starting out. In addition, I had not done make-up on too many other people besides friends and family. It's funny when you work with other make-up artists in a retail environment and some times in general. A lot of make-up artists have chips on their shoulders and act like they have "all of the secrets to the universe"- people rarely will lend a helping hand or advice!

By the time I was sent for training - I had already taken it upon myself to read all training manuals, product information and more. I then knew the counter and products inside and out - which kind of made the training I received- redundant. I began to help new employees that signed on with the company so that their experiences weren't as difficult or as scary as mine were intitially.

It's kind of hilarious now that I think about to the situations! Before signing on to the company I thought that everyone that was working there was a "higher grade" of make-up artist. I thought they knew everything about the company, products and makeup in general. I think this is still a huge stigma surrounding big brands.

The truth is that- it might be that persons first day ever working for the company! They might not have any training what-so-ever! Theres also no way of knowing this.lol. 


 I now discourage a lot of my clients and friends from getting make-up done in retail environments for events.


The Customers:
In my retail experience - the customers were usually awesome. I rarely had diva's or difficult individuals to deal with. A lot of the customers would come back to me on a regular basis to get their make-up done or buy products specifically from me. My customers trusted me- because I always told it how it was- I never lied to any customers to sell them products. This is an awesome habit to get into. It's also good to have an awesome rapport with all customers.

The Management:
The management of this BIG BRAND/ #1 Professional Makeup Artist Brand was probably one of the worst things about the retail job I had for this specific company.

During my time with this company I was trying my absolute hardest to do every thing right and please the management. My appearance has always been considered "funky" or "edgy" to most people - and that is something that I believe has opened many doors for me but has also created issues when in retail. The majority of the people working for the company I was at were almost carbon copies of real life barbie dolls (an image I have never fit into). I feel as though I was discriminated against at times by the management.

When working any job - it's typical for your boss to want you to perform at a mediocre speed or average level. Whenever you try hard or have excellent sales goals and good rapport with clientele a manager with low self esteem or insecurities will some times lash out against you for good performance. With most jobs exceeding expectations can some times create jealousy or issues with people that are threatened that you may one day take their job or rise to higher levels in the company. There are a lot of politics that go on in the Retail Makeup Industry between management and between the employees that work there.

When working for that specific company - there were times when the management would have me in tears.
I am a very modest person - but believe they abused their power because they were threatened by my performance and talents. I was also attending cosmetology school which threatened them at the time because none of the management had even attended college- never the less- cosmetology school to become licensed.

The management decided that I would become the "whipping post" of the counter and would repeatedly lash out on me when they were having a bad day or when I succeeded. I still did my job, continued to cover for unreliable employees, and for sick employees. I would be scheduled at weird hours and days unfairly.
It seems that in the retail environment there are a lot of people who will try to break your soul!
However, I suggest sticking through it because it makes you a stronger person, better makeup artist, and also a more determined individual. In the end you realize that you are going places and they're not! So, despite the conditions that the management puts you through - I always say - never give up.

Through the company I decided that we should throw an AIDs benefit to help children with aids. The company is big on supporting AIDs as their cause. I had to get the approval from the company for this. I then called up my friends who were drag performers, the night clubs I had worked with and any friends who were DJ's. I promoted the event primarily myself. We also got the newspapers involved. I had friends perform drag and also pinup and burlesque. My parents were even nice enough to spend their own money to make food and bring in hot dishes for the performers.The even was a huge success.

However, during the event some of the employees were really unreliable. One girl was on X-tasy and could barely help out at all, which I've always felt was really unprofessional. In addition, the manager showed up to the event at midnight DRUNK - and collected all of the money from the register and took it with her. I think she may have stayed for a drink - lol- go figure!

In the end, the manager of the counter deposited the money into her own bank account and wrote the check to the company. I and none of the people involved ever received a thank you. The check was written from the managers bank account - so I'm sure she got all the credit and it helped make her look good. It's interesting that some people can get drunk, miss out on a charity event and then still get credit for it. However, the event was not about gaining exposure or getting credit from the company - it was for children with AIDs!
Months later, I heard from another employee that we did get a letter from the company thanking us. However, I never received it and never was able to share it with the employees involved.
Thanks!

The Training:
The training received from the company was ok. It was given by "trainers" from the company that usually do celebrities for concerts and events. It was exciting to go to training. However, I would later realize that they werent teaching us how to be pro makeup artists - but rather high powered sellers! Theres a lot of sneaky information in their manuals that really just tells you how to harp on the consumers emotions to make them believe that they need a product.

I am thankful that the company offered any training at all - but it was 8 months too late!
Other retail companies rarely offer training - so heads up - when applying for a company ask if they train you at all.

I would still say most of the things I have learned have been from friends, workshops and actually doing makeup for jobs!


Freelance V.S. Permanent Positions
Various retail companies will have permanent makeup artist positions and also freelance positions. There are definitely "pros" and "cons" with both of these categories.

Permanent Employees have year round permanent jobs. However, a lot of these jobs require you to work on Saturdays, Sundays and holidays year round. In a retail environment you can build a clientele through the customers that show up to buy products or get their makeup done. This can lead to Wedding Jobs and other Event Jobs. However, it makes things hard when scheduling weddings a year or months in advance because most schedules for the makeup counter are only put out 2 weeks in advance. In addition, most freelance gigs with individuals or private weddings require you to be available on the weekends. Permanent employees may also be eligible for health benefits depending on the hours they work as the position etc. Being permanently employed is definitely a steady job year round, but can also stunt your growth as a makeup artist and keep you behind the counter. Also - as a free agent makeup artist - you can some times make your entire weeks salary (behind the counter) - in one day. However, as a permanent employee you also get awesome employee discounts and free products as "gratis".There are definitely pros and cons.

Freelance Makeup Artist positions with Cosmetics Companies also have their pros and cons. As a freelance makeup artist for a company you come in during busy times of the year, events, and also holidays. However, you do not receive training for most companies, do not receive health benefits and do not have a steady income guaranteed by the company. In addition, they may want you when you are already booked for events or your own company gigs. When I worked in the retail environment- freelance makeup artists- were also "looked down at" - because they did not know as much about products or where to find things. There was definitely a lot of contempt for freelancers because they would interfere with your sales because they would always be asking a million questions - which would cause you to have to stop what you were doing to help them. Freelancers do get paid more money than permanent employees however - when they are working.
Freelancers do not get the same employee discounts or free products as permanent employees though.


Promotions & Pollitics:
(please note- this is not how all makeup counters are, but rather the things I have seen through my own experience and have heard from other makeup artists)

Whenever some one asks me about retail makeup artistry - I tell them to go for it! It is excellent experience whether you have an awesome time or not. Working retail can build confidence, skill, knowledge, and experience working with clients. Retail Makeup also build patience when dealing with other people, bosses, and other clients. However, I always recommend not making a career out of retail or holding out for big promotions.

The truth is that - there are a lot of politics and situations that go on behind closed doors and behind at the counter. Certain companies are shady with their hiring.
  • Discriminating Based on Race: it's illegal but - in my experience I have been discriminated due to my race when applying for locations in specific ethnic locations.
  • Discriminating Based on Appearance: in my experience there have been locations that want a certain number of overweight people at the makeup counter and will often find ways to discriminate against you based on your size and appearance. Some times counters feel that you might make their counter "more diverse" if you are gothy/rockery etc v.s. clean cut. They might also want a token fat girl behind the counter - but not more than one!
  • Discrimination Based on Family: when working for this major company I was up for a job promotion. I had excellent sales goals, exceeded expectations, covered for sick employees and was always on time. When applying for a promotion that would give me more hours I was passed over for an employee that had been there for half the time I was there. The manager told me that the reasoning for her decision was because the other girl had kids and needed more money. (also illegal). This was aggrevaiting to me because I was putting myself through college and cosmetology school without any financial aid or help from any one.
  • Discrimination Based on Sex: I found that a lot of girls apply to these big companies and never get hired. There are fewer men applying for the makeup counter positions. However, I have found that when most men apply for makeup counter jobs- they are hired. The reasoning behind this is for counter diversity - but also - the excuse I heard was- because the belief is that women preffer to have their makeup done by men because then their husbands will like the makeup. A mans opinion is worth more apparently.
  • Discrimination Based on Sexual Orientation: I have talked to other makeup artists that used to work for this big company as well. They were gay men and claimed that they were not hired and were actually called "fags".
The bottom line is that Retail Makeup Environments have their "pros" and "cons". I am not posting this blog posting to discourage any one from retail or to trash talk certain large companies. This blog posting is my general opinion, experience and things I have encountered in the retail environment. While my time as a retail artist wasnt always fun or rewarding - I would do it again in a heart beat. Every type of job out there has it's pros and cons. Retail Makeup Artistry helps to develop and build better makeup artists. However, just because you work a retail job for a big company - it does not mean that you have "made it".

True professionals go out there and work for themselves. Makeup counters will just stunt your growth if you make a end all career out of it. Do your time and then leave!

We're in the Kitchen

Hi Ladies & Gents!

This is Morgan Wells from Jane Doe Makeup & Studio.
Thank you for viewing my new blog. The new blog is titled Jane's Brain!
This is FREE platform for Make-up Artists, Enthusiasts, Makeup Lovers, Models, and more to pick Jane's Brain about make-up, makeup artistry advice, industry information and more! I will also be posting updates, workshop information, non-instructional portfolio development session announcements, updates on services and more.


Update: 
I am currently "in the kitchen" with new ideas, new services, and more in store for our clients, customers,makeup artists, models, and industry friends!

What you can expect from us for Fall 2010:
  • The New- Jane Doe Makeup Cosmetics Line
  • Pro Membership Program for Make-up Artists (includes free informational meetings, mixers, discounts on our new products that will be launched this fall)
  • New & Exciting Make-up Workshops for all skill levels - available to the general public 
  • New Portfolio Development/Building Sessions with models, wardrobe, and makeup supplied
  • A 3 DAY Intensive Bridal Workshop (nonvocational) debuting in September (includes discounts on 3 workshops- Basic/Bridal, All About Bridal, and Airbrush/HD Makeup)
  • A 3 Day Intensive Special FX/Fantasy Workshop (nonvocational)debuting in September (only running in Sept+Oct)
  • Holiday Contests & Free Giveaways (October-November-February) via our mailing list in the "mailing list" section of www.JaneDoeStudio.com
I am also currently offering workshops this month and in August 2010. Signup for our workshops in the "workshop" section of www.JaneDoeStudio.com

THANKS!
-Morgan